When it comes to suits, the details make all the difference. While many focus on fabric, color, and fit, one crucial element often flies under the radar: the lapel. This seemingly small detail can completely transform your suit's character, formality level, and how it complements your body type.

The lapel—that folded fabric on each side of your jacket where the collar meets the front edges—serves both practical and aesthetic purposes. Originally designed to allow jackets to be buttoned up to the neck in cold weather, lapels have evolved into a key style signifier that communicates volumes about your fashion sensibility.

Understanding the Impact of Your Suit Lapel Choice

There are three main suit lapel styles—notch, peak, and shawl—each with distinct characteristics and appropriate contexts. Your lapel choice matters because it influences the suit's versatility, formality, and how well it frames your face and physique.

We offer all three lapel styles across our collection, understanding that this detail is crucial for nailing the perfect look for any occasion. Whether you're selecting a suit for your wedding, a business meeting, or a black-tie event, understanding lapel styles will help you make an informed choice that perfectly balances tradition and personal style.

The Anatomy of a Suit Lapel

Before diving into specific styles, it's helpful to understand the key components that make up a suit lapel. Getting familiar with this terminology will give you a deeper appreciation for tailoring craftsmanship and help you articulate your preferences when discussing suits with a tailor or stylist. Plus, it's a lot of fun to talk about your lapel's belly.

Key Lapel Components:

Gorge: The seam where the lapel meets the collar. The gorge position affects the suit's overall appearance—higher gorges create a more modern look, while lower gorges are more traditional.

Belly: The outward curve of the lapel as it extends downward. More dramatic bellies create a stronger visual statement.

Break point: Where the lapel "breaks" away from the button closure, determining how much of the lapel is displayed. This point significantly impacts the suit's overall aesthetic.

Roll: How the lapel naturally curves from the collar to the break point. A beautiful "roll" is the hallmark of excellent tailoring.

Width: Measured from the gorge to the lapel's outer edge. Lapel widths typically range from 2.5 inches (slim) to 4+ inches (wide). Current trends favor moderate widths (around 3-3.5 inches) that balance classic and contemporary styling.

Lapel construction involves careful craftsmanship—multiple layers of fabric, canvas, and sometimes horsehair create structure and natural curvature. High-quality suits feature hand-stitched lapels that create a subtle ripple effect called "roll and bloom," giving the jacket depth and character.

Lapel width should ideally complement your tie width and shirt collar spread. The general rule is that these three elements should be proportionally balanced—slim lapels with slim ties and narrow collars, wider lapels with wider ties and spread collars.

Notch Lapels: The Versatile Classic

The notch lapel is the most common style you'll encounter, characterized by a visible notch where the collar meets the lapel at a 75-90 degree angle. This distinctive "notch" gives the style its name and creates a timeless, versatile look suitable for most occasions.

History and Evolution

Notch lapels have been a staple of men's tailoring since the late 19th century. They evolved from earlier military uniforms and hunting jackets, becoming standardized as business attire during the industrial revolution. The notch lapel's practical, unfussy design made it perfect for the emerging professional class, and it has remained the dominant lapel style for business suits ever since.

Over time, the notch lapel has seen subtle variations in width and angle, from the ultra-wide lapels of the 1970s to the extremely narrow versions of the early 2000s. Today's notch lapels generally feature a moderate, timeless width that avoids trend extremes.

Best Occasions for Notch Lapels

The notch lapel's greatest strength is its versatility:

• Business environments (interviews, daily office wear, client meetings)
• Most weddings (especially daytime and semi-formal)
• Casual events where suits are appropriate
• Religious ceremonies and services
• Conferences and networking events

Face Shapes and Body Types

Notch lapels work well for most men but are particularly flattering for:

• Men with round faces (the angular notch creates helpful contrast)
• Shorter men (notch lapels don't elongate the torso like peaks can)
• Men with average to athletic builds
• Those seeking a balanced, proportional look

Notch lapels sit at the middle of the formality spectrum—perfectly appropriate for most business and social occasions without appearing overdressed or underdressed. This makes them an excellent choice for your first suit or for building a versatile wardrobe.

The Black Tux offers several notch lapel options across our collection, including our popular Classic Suit and Essential Suit, both featuring perfectly-proportioned notch lapels that balance timeless appeal with contemporary styling.

Peak Lapels: The Statement Maker

Peak lapels feature pointed edges that face upward toward your shoulders, creating a sharp, distinctive silhouette. This upward sweep draws the eye to the shoulders, creating a strong visual impact and sense of formality.

History and Evolution

Peak lapels originated in military and formal court dress of the 18th and 19th centuries. They were initially reserved for the most formal garments like tailcoats and morning dress. By the early 20th century, peak lapels began appearing on double-breasted suits and more formal single-breasted options.

During the Art Deco era of the 1920s and 30s, peak lapels enjoyed particular popularity, embodying the bold, geometric aesthetic of the time. They've remained a symbol of sartorial confidence ever since, experiencing surges in popularity during eras that celebrate strong silhouettes and traditional craftsmanship.

Best Occasions for Peak Lapels

Peak lapels shine in:

• Formal evening events
• Business settings where you want to project authority
• Weddings (especially as the groom)
• Upscale social gatherings
• Situations where you want to make a strong impression

Face Shapes and Body Types

Peak lapels are particularly flattering for:

• Men with narrower shoulders (the upward sweep creates width)
• Taller men (peaks complement longer torsos)
• Men with oval or oblong faces
• Those looking to project confidence and authority

Peak lapels rank higher on the formality scale than notch lapels. While still appropriate for business wear (especially in conservative professions like finance and law), they command more attention and convey stronger personality.

The upward lines of peak lapels draw the eye outward to the shoulders, creating the impression of a broader chest and more powerful physique. This visual effect makes them particularly appealing for men looking to enhance their shoulder-to-waist ratio.

The Black Tux offers sophisticated peak lapel options in our Premium Suit line and select tuxedo styles, perfect for making a confident statement at important events.

Shawl Lapels: The Formal Specialist

Shawl lapels feature a continuous curved edge with no notch or peak, creating an elegant, unbroken line from the collar down to the button. This smooth, rounded style exudes sophistication and is most commonly associated with formal evening wear.

History and Evolution

Shawl lapels developed from smoking jackets and formal loungewear of the 19th century. They were inspired by the shawl collars found on cardigans and robes, designed for comfort while maintaining elegance. By the early 20th century, the shawl lapel became firmly established as a distinctive feature of the dinner jacket (tuxedo).

Hollywood's Golden Age cemented the shawl lapel's iconic status, with stars like Fred Astaire and Humphrey Bogart showcasing this elegant style on screen. The shawl lapel has remained closely associated with formal evening wear ever since, experiencing periodic mainstream revivals whenever vintage elegance comes back into fashion.

Best Occasions for Shawl Lapels

Shawl lapels are ideally suited for:

• Black tie events
• Formal weddings
• Galas and charity events
• Upscale nightlife
• Any event specified as "creative black tie"

Face Shapes and Body Types

Shawl lapels work particularly well for:

• Men with angular faces (the curved lapel softens sharp features)
• Average to slim builds
• Those with good posture (shawl lapels emphasize the chest and shoulder line)
• Men seeking a refined, sophisticated look

Shawl lapels are highly specialized in terms of formality—they're perfect for black tie events but would look out of place in most business settings. This specialization makes them less versatile but more distinctive when worn in appropriate contexts.

The curved, unbroken line of a shawl lapel creates a sophisticated frame that draws attention to your face and shirt front. This makes them particularly effective when paired with bow ties and formal accessories.

The Black Tux offers several stunning shawl lapel options in our tuxedo collection, including the iconic Shawl Collar Tuxedo, designed specifically for memorable formal occasions.

How to Choose the Right Lapel for Different Occasions

Selecting the appropriate lapel style involves considering the event, time of day, and the impression you want to make. Here's a guide to help you navigate different scenarios:

Weddings

For the groom:

• Formal evening wedding: Peak lapel tuxedo or peak lapel suit
• Daytime formal wedding: Peak lapel suit
• Semi-formal wedding: Either notch or peak lapel, based on personal preference
• Black tie wedding: Shawl lapel tuxedo or peak lapel tuxedo

For groomsmen:

• Generally one step down in formality from the groom
• For formal weddings: Notch lapel suits or tuxedos
• For casual weddings: Notch lapel suits

For guests:

• Black tie specified: Shawl or peak lapel tuxedo
• Formal: Notch or peak lapel suit
• Semi-formal or casual: Notch lapel suit

Business Settings

• Conservative industries (finance, law, consulting): Notch lapel suits for daily wear; peak lapels for important presentations or client meetings
• Creative industries: More flexibility—notch lapels for everyday, peak lapels for making a statement
• Job interviews: Notch lapel suits (projecting reliability rather than flash)

Black Tie Events

• Traditional approach: Peak lapel tuxedo
• Classic with a twist: Shawl Collar tuxedo
• Creative black tie: Either style, with potential for unique fabrications or details

Seasonal Considerations

• Summer events: Lighter fabrics look best with notch lapels
• Winter formal events: Heavier fabrics support the structure of peak or shawl lapels beautifully
• Year-round business wear: Notch lapels offer the most versatility

Matching Lapels to Your Body Type and Face Shape

Choosing the right lapel isn't just about the occasion—it's also about finding a style that complements your natural proportions:

Body Type Considerations

Athletic Build (broader shoulders, narrower waist):

• All lapel styles work well
• Medium-width lapels maintain proportion
• Peak lapels can further emphasize strong shoulders

Slim Build:

• Moderate to slightly wider lapels add substance
• Peak lapels can create the illusion of broader shoulders
• Avoid extremely narrow lapels which can make you appear thinner

Broader Build:

• Well-proportioned notch lapels create balance
• Avoid extremely wide lapels that emphasize width
• Moderate peak lapels can help draw the eye upward

Shorter Men:

• Proportionally sized notch lapels (neither too wide nor too narrow)
• Peak lapels can create vertical lines that add height
• Lapel gorge height should be proportionate to overall height

Taller Men:

• Can carry wider lapels effectively
• Peak lapels complement a longer torso
• Higher gorge positions work particularly well

Face Shape Considerations

Round Face:

• Angular notch or peak lapels provide helpful contrast
• Avoid shawl lapels which can echo roundness

Angular/Square Face:

• Shawl lapels soften sharp features
• Notch lapels with moderate openings work well
• Avoid extremely sharp peak lapels which may overemphasize angles

Oval Face:

• All lapel styles generally work well
• Choose based on other factors like body type and occasion

Long Face:

• Wider lapels create horizontal balance
• Lower gorge positioning helps shorten the appearance of the face
• Shawl lapels can soften an elongated appearance

The key is proportion and balance—your lapel choice should harmonize with your natural features rather than fighting against them or creating visual discord.

Expert Tips: Lapel Customization and Details

For those looking to personalize their suit lapels, there are several thoughtful details to consider:

Boutonniere Loop

A small fabric loop on the underside of the left lapel allows you to securely affix a boutonniere without damaging the fabric. This traditional detail is especially valued for wedding suits and tuxedos.

Lapel Buttonhole

The small buttonhole on the left lapel (originally designed to hold a flower stem) should be hand-stitched and functional. On high-quality suits, this will be a "Milanese buttonhole"—slightly raised with a gimp cord for structure and visual appeal.

Pick Stitching

Visible, delicate stitching around the lapel edge creates subtle texture and visual interest. This hand-done detail signifies quality tailoring and adds personality without flashiness.

Lapel Width

While standard widths are most common, you can sometimes customize the lapel width to better suit your proportions or style preferences. The Black Tux offers carefully considered lapel widths designed to flatter most body types while maintaining timeless appeal.

Fabric Choices

Different fabrics affect how lapels appear:

• Worsted wool creates clean, crisp lapels
• Flannel and textured wools offer a softer, more relaxed look
• Mohair and wool-silk blends can add subtle sheen to lapels
• Velvet lapels (contrasting with the main fabric) create dramatic formal looks

Lapel Pins and Accessories

The left lapel is traditionally where pins, badges, or other accents might be worn:

• Keep accessories minimal and meaningful
• Ensure pins are placed straight and secure
• For formal occasions, consider subtle silk lapel pins that complement other accessories

At The Black Tux, our professional stylists can help you navigate these details to create a cohesive, personalized look for any occasion.

Care and Maintenance for Different Lapel Types

Proper care ensures your suit lapels maintain their shape and appearance:

General Lapel Care

• Hang suits properly on wide, shaped hangers that support the shoulders
• Use a soft brush to remove dust and debris from lapels regularly
• Avoid overpacking closets where suits can be compressed
• Steam (rather than iron) lapels to remove wrinkles

Common Lapel Issues and Solutions

Rolling lapels: If lapels begin to lose their shape or roll improperly:

• Have them professionally pressed
• For temporary fixes, steam and then clamp with binder clips overnight

Creased lapels: Deep creases from improper storage:

• Professional steaming is best
• At home, hang the suit in a steamy bathroom and gently shape the lapels by hand

Shine or wear: Areas that have developed shine from overuse:

• Professional brushing and steaming may help
• In severe cases, professional refurbishing may be needed

Stains on lapels:

• Address immediately with appropriate spot cleaning
• For serious stains, seek professional cleaning

Professional care is always recommended for quality suits. Proper cleaning and occasional pressing by knowledgeable tailors will extend the life of your lapels and maintain their crisp appearance.

Finding Your Perfect Suit Lapel

The right lapel style elevates your suit from basic attire to a personal style statement. Choose notch lapels for versatility and everyday wear, peak lapels when you need to command attention, or shawl lapels for black-tie elegance. Consider both the occasion and your physical features when selecting the perfect lapel for your needs.

We've carefully designed our collection to offer ideal lapel options for every occasion. Whether you're building a wardrobe or selecting a suit for a specific event, our expert team can help you navigate the nuances of lapel styles to find your perfect match.

Explore our full range of suits and tuxedos to discover how the right lapel can elevate your look for any occasion.