Knowing which parts of a suit can be changed by a tailor—and how much these changes might cost—can save you time, money, and help manage expectations.

This guide covers everything you need to know about suit alterations, from simple sleeve adjustments to more complicated changes. We'll explain what's possible, what's not, and what you can expect to pay. By the end, you'll know exactly how to get the perfect fit and how to talk to your tailor about what you need.

Understanding the Basics of Suit Construction

Before getting into specific alterations, it helps to know a little about how suits are made, since this affects what changes are possible.

A suit jacket isn't just a single layer of fabric. It has an outer layer (what you see) and an inside structure that gives it shape. This inside structure is important because it determines how much the suit can be altered.

There are basically three types of suits you might own:

• Budget suits: The inside structure is glued to the outer fabric. These are less expensive but have fewer alteration options.
• Mid-range suits: Have better construction in the chest and lapel areas. These offer a good balance between quality and alteration possibilities. This is how we make our Essentials suiting.
• Premium suits: Fully hand-stitched internal structure. These higher-end suits generally offer the most alteration options. This is how our core tailoring collection is made.

The fabric type matters too. Natural materials like wool are easier to alter because they have more flexibility. Synthetic blends might be more affordable and wrinkle less, but they can be harder to alter significantly. (Learn more about wool suits vs. polyester.)

When talking with your tailor, knowing these basics will help you understand what changes are realistic for your particular suit.

Common Suit Jacket Alterations

The jacket is usually the trickiest part of a suit to alter. Here are the most common jacket changes and what you can expect to pay:

Sleeve Length Adjustments ($20-45)

When your arms hang naturally at your sides, a little bit of shirt cuff (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch) should show beyond your jacket sleeve. Shortening sleeves is pretty straightforward for most tailors. Lengthening is only possible if there's extra fabric hidden inside the sleeve, which quality suits typically have.

Taking In/Letting Out the Waist ($30-50)

This is one of the most effective changes you can make. A tailor can usually take in the middle section of a jacket by 1-3 inches to create a more defined shape. Letting out a jacket depends on whether there's extra fabric hidden in the seams (usually about half an inch in most suits). This alteration transforms a boxy jacket into one that complements your shape.

Button Replacement or Repositioning ($10-25)

Swapping out buttons is an easy and affordable way to update an older suit. Moving buttons slightly can also help the jacket close more comfortably or give it a more current look.

Shortening Jacket Length ($40-80)

Jackets can usually be shortened by about half an inch to 1.5 inches. Today's style tends to favor slightly shorter jackets than in the past. This alteration is more complex because it affects the overall proportions of the jacket.

Vent Adjustments ($30-60)

The vents are the slits at the back of your jacket. Adjusting them can improve how the jacket hangs, especially for men with broader hips. Vents can be shortened, closed up, or sometimes opened depending on the jacket's construction.

Pants Alterations

Pants are generally more forgiving than jackets when it comes to alterations. Here are the most common adjustments.

Waist Adjustments ($20-40)

Trousers can typically be taken in or let out by 1-3 inches at the waist, depending on the fabric and construction. This involves adjusting the rear seam and sometimes the side seams. Additional alterations may be needed if the seat requires adjustment after waist adjustment.

Hemming/Length Adjustments ($10-25)

Perhaps the most common alteration, hemming ensures your pants break properly over your shoes. Options include:

• No break: Pants barely touch the shoes
• Slight break: Small fold of fabric touches the shoe
• Medium break: More pronounced fold
• Full break: Substantial fold at the shoe (more traditional)

Current trends favor a slight break or no break for a cleaner, more modern appearance.

Tapering Legs ($25-45)

Slimming the leg silhouette from the knee down creates a contemporary look. Tapering can transform an older, wider-legged suit into something more current. Most trousers can be tapered by 1-3 inches in total circumference without affecting the balance. Just don't overdo it and go full-skinny pants.

Cuff Addition or Removal ($20-30)

Adding or removing cuffs (sometimes called turn-ups) changes both the style and how the pants hang. Cuffs add weight to the bottom of trousers, helping them drape better, but also create a more traditional look. Removing cuffs can make pants appear more sleek and modern.

Seat Adjustments ($25-50)

Adjusting the seat area improves comfort and appearance, eliminating excess fabric that causes sagging or tightness that creates tension lines. This alteration requires skill as it affects how the pants hang from the waist to the knee.

Vest Alterations

For three-piece suits, vest alterations can complete a tailored look.

Back Strap Adjustments ($15-30)

Most suit vests have an adjustable strap at the back to fine-tune the fit. Having this properly adjusted or replaced ensures the vest lies flat against your shirt without gapping or pulling. Many vests can be adjusted for free with some DIY.

Length Modifications ($25-40)

Shortening a vest can update its look, as modern vests tend to be shorter than traditional ones. The proper length should cover your waistband without extending far below the waistline of your pants.

Taking In Sides ($20-35)

Creating a more contoured fit through the body of the vest prevents the boxy appearance that can make even an expensive suit look cheap. This alteration ensures the vest complements rather than contradicts the tailored silhouette of your jacket.

What Cannot Be Altered (or Is Really Hard to Change)

While many parts of a suit can be changed, some alterations are either impossible or so expensive that buying a new suit makes more sense.

Shoulder Width

The shoulders are the foundation of your jacket. Making significant changes to shoulder width usually requires completely rebuilding the jacket, and can cost $200-400 or more. This cost often exceeds what many suits are worth. The golden rule: buy a suit that fits your shoulders properly, and you can alter almost anything else.

Chest and Upper Back

The chest and upper back have very little extra fabric hidden in the seams. Most suits can only be modified about half an inch in these areas before major reconstruction is needed. If your jacket pulls at the buttons or forms an "X" shape when buttoned up, it's probably too small in the chest to be properly altered.

Lapel Style

While small adjustments are possible, changing wide lapels to narrow ones (or vice versa) means rebuilding the entire front of the jacket. Likewise, changing a notch lapel to a peak lapel is basically like making a new jacket. These changes cost more than they're worth.

Pattern Matching

For patterned suits (like pinstripes or checks), any significant alteration needs to keep the pattern aligned perfectly. This limits how much the suit can be changed, as disrupting the pattern makes alterations very noticeable.

Fabric Problems

Some materials just don't alter well:

• Worn or damaged fabric might not hold up during alterations
• Delicate materials like silk can show marks from previous stitching
• Synthetic fabrics might not press well after alterations
• Suits with special treatments might lose those features during major alterations

Cost Factors for Suit Alterations

Beyond the base prices mentioned above, several factors can affect the final cost of alterations:

Fabric Type and Quality

Luxury fabrics require special handling. Working with high-end wools, cashmere blends, or delicate materials demands more skill and time, can significantly increase costs compared to basic alterations on standard fabrics.

Complexity of the Alteration

When multiple alterations that affect each other (like adjusting both the chest and waist simultaneously), you'll need more planning and a more experienced tailor, leading to higher costs. Similarly, alterations that affect the jacket's balance or structure will cost more than simple modifications.

Suit Construction

Fully canvassed suits require working around the floating canvas without damaging it, which demands more skill and time, and fused jackets may limit certain alterations entirely.

Rush Orders

Short on time? Time is money, and as it turns out, so is a lack of time. Complex alterations that normally take 1-2 weeks might be possible in 2-3 days, but expect to pay significantly more for the convenience.

Where to Get Alterations

Costs vary significantly based on where you get alterations done:

• Department stores: Often less expensive but may have less experienced tailors
• Independent tailors: Moderate pricing with varying levels of expertise
• Specialty tailoring shops: Higher pricing but with master tailors capable of complex work
• Luxury tailors: Premium pricing with the highest level of craftsmanship

Cost Comparison: Alterations vs. Buying New

As a general rule, if alterations would exceed 50% of the cost of a new suit of similar quality, consider replacement instead. For example, extensive alterations totaling $400 might not make sense for a $600 suit but could be worthwhile for a $1,200 suit.

Timeline Expectations

Planning ahead is crucial, especially for special events:

Standard Timeframes

• Basic alterations (hemming, sleeve adjustments): 3-7 days
• Moderate alterations (waist adjustments, tapering): 7-10 days
• Complex alterations (shortening jacket, multiple changes): 2-3 weeks
• Major reconstruction: 3-4 weeks or more

Special Event Planning

For weddings and other important events, schedule your first fitting at least 6-8 weeks before the event. This allows time for:

• Initial alterations
• A second fitting to fine-tune the changes
• Final adjustments if needed
• Buffer time for unexpected issues

Rush Options

Most tailors offer expedited services with a premium on the total alteration cost. Always ask about rush options when you're in a time crunch, but understand that quality may be compromised if work is hastened too much.

Multiple Fittings

Quality alterations often require multiple fittings:

• First fitting: Measurements and pinning
• Second fitting: Evaluation of initial alterations and minor adjustments
• Final fitting: Confirmation that all changes meet expectations

Budget extra time if you anticipate needing multiple rounds of changes.

How to Talk to Your Tailor

Good communication with your tailor helps ensure you get exactly what you want:

Questions Worth Asking

• "What changes would you recommend for this suit?"
• "Is there anything that can't be changed about this suit?"
• "How much can you take this in or let it out?"
• "Will changing one part affect how another part fits?"
• "How many fittings will I need?"

Be Specific About What You Want

Instead of just saying "I want it to fit better," explain exactly what's bothering you. For example: "The jacket feels tight when I reach forward" or "There's too much fabric around my waist making it look boxy."

What to Bring to Your Appointment

• The shoes you'll wear with the suit
• The shirt you'll typically wear with it
• Any undergarments that might affect the fit
• Pictures showing the style or fit you're looking for

Trust Expert Advice

A good tailor will recommend the most effective alterations—sometimes different from what you initially asked for. Listen to their expertise, especially when they advise against certain changes. If they say something can't be done, ask why rather than pushing for an alteration that might not work out well.

Conclusion

A well-altered suit not only looks better but makes you feel better too. Knowing what can and cannot be altered helps you make smarter buying decisions and avoid disappointment.

Remember that good alterations are an investment. Spending $100-200 on tailoring a $500 suit can make it look like a $1,000 suit, while even the most expensive designer suit will look ordinary if it fits poorly.

The golden rule is simple: buy a suit that fits the hardest-to-alter parts of your body (shoulders, chest, and sometimes length), then tailor the rest. With the right alterations, even an average-priced suit can make you look sharp, confident, and stylish.

Suit Alterations: Quick Reference Guide

FAQs About Suit Alterations

Q: How many sizes can a suit be altered?
A: Most suits can be altered 1-2 sizes up or down. Beyond that, structural limitations make alterations impractical or impossible.

Q: Is it worth tailoring an inexpensive suit?
A: Basic alterations can significantly improve even budget suits. Focus on fit in critical areas like shoulders and chest, then at minimum, ensure proper sleeve and trouser length.

Q: How long do suit alterations typically last?
A: With proper care, alterations should last the lifetime of the garment. If your weight fluctuates, however, you may need additional adjustments.

Q: Can vintage suits be successfully altered to modern fits?
A: Many vintage suits can be updated with strategic alterations to lapels, trouser tapering, and jacket length. However, dramatic style changes may not be possible without compromising the garment's integrity.

Q: Should I clean my suit before or after alterations?
A: Generally, clean your suit before alterations, as cleaning can slightly change how fabrics drape and fit.

Q: How do I find a good tailor?
A: Seek recommendations from well-dressed friends or menswear stores, check reviews specifically mentioning suit alterations, and test a tailor with a simple alteration before trusting them with complex changes.