The double breasted suit has reclaimed its rightful place in men's fashion, evolving from its historical roots into a contemporary statement of sophisticated style. Once a power-dressing staple of the 1920s and 30s, then revived in the bold 1980s, today's double breasted suit offers a refined silhouette that speaks to both tradition and modern sensibilities.

No longer confined to boardrooms or banker stereotypes, the modern double breasted suit has been reimagined by designers worldwide, offering versatility and distinction that sets the wearer apart. Whether you're considering this style for the first time or looking to update your approach, this guide will equip you with everything you need to know about selecting, styling, and wearing double breasted suits with confidence.

What Is a Double Breasted Suit?

A double breasted suit is distinguished by its overlapping front panels with two parallel columns of buttons. This creates a distinct look that differs significantly from the more common single breasted design. The overlapping construction creates a wrap-like effect across the front of the jacket, resulting in a bold statement piece that commands attention.

Key features of a double breasted suit include:

• Overlapping front panels that create a broader chest appearance
• Two parallel rows of buttons (typically 4-6 buttons visible)
• Wider peak lapels that enhance the suit's commanding presence
• Button configurations referred to by numbers (e.g., 6x2, 4x2)
• A shaped waist that creates a defined silhouette

Button configurations are described using two numbers: the first shows the total buttons visible on the front, while the second indicates how many actually fasten. The classic 6x2 (six buttons with two that fasten) remains popular, though many men now prefer the 4x2 for its cleaner look. The 6x1 arrangement is also gaining traction for its longer lapel line and contemporary feel.

What truly sets the double breasted suit apart is the distinctive silhouette it creates. The overlapping panels naturally enhance the chest while the structured shoulders and shaped waist contribute to a powerful V-shaped figure that few other garments can achieve.

History & Modern Revival

The double breasted suit started as naval uniforms in the early 19th century before becoming civilian fashion. Originally designed for warmth at sea, its crossover front provided extra protection against harsh elements. By the 1930s and 40s, the style had become standard in business and formal wear, seen on style icons from the Duke of Windsor to Cary Grant.

After falling out of favor in the minimalist 60s, the double breasted suit made a comeback in the 80s, though with exaggerated proportions that haven't aged well—think power suits with huge shoulder pads and boxy cuts. This era unfortunately created the impression that double breasted suits were dated or overwhelming.

Today's revival tells a different story. Modern designers like Tom Ford and Brunello Cucinelli have reimagined the double breasted suit with:

• Slimmer, more flattering cuts
• Softer construction that moves with the body
• More natural shoulders (less padding)

This modern renaissance has been championed by style icons like Ryan Gosling, Idris Elba, and David Beckham, who show the suit's versatility across formal events, creative professional settings, and even smart-casual occasions. Their fresh approach has helped reposition the double breasted suit from outdated to forward-thinking.

Choosing the Right Double Breasted Suit for Your Body Type

One common myth about double breasted suits is that they only flatter certain body types. In reality, with proper tailoring and style selection, this versatile suit can complement virtually any physique—it's simply about understanding what works for your specific build.

Athletic Build

If you have broader shoulders and a narrower waist:

• Go for a 6x2 button style that highlights your proportions
• Consider moderate shoulder structure to maintain balance
• Choose a slightly tapered waist to enhance your natural shape

Slim or Lean Build

For those with a more straight physique:

• Look for styles with subtle padding to add some structure
• Consider a 4x2 button arrangement for a less overwhelming look
• Slightly wider lapels can create the impression of more chest width

Broader Build

If you carry more weight through your middle:

• Select a 6x2 style with a lower buttoning point
• Ensure the jacket has enough room without excess fabric
• Choose a slightly longer jacket length for a balanced look

For all body types, proper fit is the most important factor. The jacket shoulders should align with your natural shoulder edge, sleeves should show about ¼ inch of shirt cuff, and the chest should lie smooth without pulling or excess fabric. The correct length allows you to cup your fingers under the jacket hem when standing.

Common fitting mistakes include jackets that are too large (creating a boxy look) or too small (causing that obvious "X" pull when buttoned). Working with a good tailor is especially important for double breasted suits, as their unique cut requires specific adjustments to look their best.

Double Breasted Suit vs. Blazer - What's the Difference?

While often confused, double breasted suits and double breasted blazers serve different purposes in your wardrobe. Understanding these differences helps determine which is right for various occasions.

A double breasted suit includes a matching jacket and pants made from identical fabric, designed to be worn together. The suit is the more formal option, appropriate for business settings, weddings, and formal events. The consistent fabric creates a unified, elegant appearance that respects traditional dress codes.

A double breasted blazer, on the other hand, is a standalone jacket typically made from sturdier fabrics like wool or hopsack. Often featuring metal buttons and sometimes decorative details, blazers are designed to be paired with different pants or even jeans for a more casual, mixed approach.

When choosing between them, consider:

• Formality needed: Suits for formal occasions, blazers for smart-casual settings
• Versatility wanted: Blazers offer more pairing options with different pants
• Weather considerations: Lighter blazers for summer, full suits for cooler seasons

Fabric choices also differ. Suits typically use finer fabrics like smooth wools and occasionally lightweight flannels. Blazer fabrics tend toward more textured options like hopsack, serge, or even casual cottons and linens for summer versions.

The styling approach differs too; suits maintain a certain formality even in their most casual versions, while blazers can be dressed up with wool pants and dress shoes or dressed down with jeans and loafers, giving you more range for creative expression.

How to Wear a Double Breasted Suit

Mastering the double breasted suit requires understanding a few key principles that honor its unique design while adapting to modern style sensibilities. These considerations will help you wear this distinctive style with confidence and authority.

Buttoning Rules

Unlike single breasted suits where the bottom button stays open, double breasted suits follow different buttoning protocols. Essential buttoning guidelines include:

• Always fasten the bottom row of functional buttons when standing
• Consider fastening both rows of functional buttons for a more formal look
• Keep the jacket buttoned while standing, only unfastening when seated

This consistent approach to buttoning helps the jacket maintain its structure over time while showcasing the intentional design of the double breasted silhouette.

Shirts and Ties

The bold character of a double breasted suit calls for thoughtful shirt and tie selections that complement its distinctive features. Spread or cutaway collars work best with the wider lapels of a double breasted jacket, creating harmonious proportions across the chest and neck.

Choose medium to wide ties (3-3.5 inches) that maintain visual balance with the broader lapels typical of double breasted suits. Solid shirts provide a clean foundation that lets the distinctive cut of the jacket remain the focal point. While subtle patterns can work well in more casual applications, the structured nature of the double breasted jacket generally pairs best with shirts that don't compete for attention.

Accessories and Footwear

The right accessories and footwear enhance the double breasted suit's sophisticated character. Consider these finishing touches:

• A well-chosen pocket square (straight edge fold for business, puff fold for social events)
• Lapel pins that draw positive attention to the wider lapel
• Footwear that matches the formality level (oxfords for formal, loafers for business)

For creative professional settings, consider suede shoes or refined boots that complement the suit while adding contemporary character. Save sneakers for deliberately fashion-forward styling only, where the high-low contrast is intentional rather than accidental.

Seasonal Styling for Double Breasted Suits

Double breasted suits can be adapted for year-round wear with the right fabric choices and styling adjustments.

Summer Double Breasted Style

For warmer months, embrace lighter elements that maintain the suit's elegance while providing comfort. The key adaptations for summer include:

• Lighter fabrics like tropical wool, linen blends, or cotton suits that allow better airflow
• Paler colors such as tan, light gray, or pale blue that reflect heat rather than absorb it
• Less structured construction with minimal lining to reduce weight and heat retention

Pair your summer double breasted suit with lighter shirts in breathable fabrics like linen or lightweight cotton. In more casual settings, you might skip the tie entirely for an elegant yet relaxed approach that's perfectly suited for summer events or office environments with relaxed dress codes.

Winter Double Breasted Style

Cold weather allows for richer expressions of the double breasted style through thoughtful fabric and accessory choices. Winter styling focuses on:

• Heavier fabrics like flannel, tweed, or substantial worsteds that provide warmth
• Deeper colors including navy, charcoal, or burgundy that align with the season
• Additional structure and proper lining that offer welcome warmth during colder months

Consider seasonal accessories like knit ties or textured pocket squares to enhance the seasonal appropriateness. Don't overlook the sophisticated option of pairing your double breasted suit with a fine turtleneck as an elegant alternative to the traditional shirt and tie combination—a particularly striking look with the structured lapels of a double breasted jacket.

Modern Styling Approaches

Today's double breasted suit has broken free from its conservative reputation. Modern styling approaches offer fresh ways to wear this classic piece that balance respect for tradition with contemporary sensibilities.

Casual Integration

The double breasted jacket can now venture confidently into casual territory without sacrificing its inherent elegance. Contemporary casual styling includes:

• Pairing with dark jeans and a crisp white shirt for smart-casual settings
• Substituting traditional button-ups with fine knitwear or quality t-shirts
• Using unstructured versions in cotton or linen for summer casual occasions

For an intentionally relaxed approach that signals confidence and style awareness, try rolling the sleeves slightly—a styling choice that demonstrates you understand the rules well enough to break them thoughtfully.

Color and Pattern Innovation

Modern double breasted suits embrace a wider range of visual expressions that extend beyond traditional navy and gray. Bold colors like cobalt blue, forest green, or burgundy make contemporary statements while remaining versatile enough for regular wear.

For those not ready for bold color commitments, subtle patterns add visual interest while maintaining professional appropriateness. Tonal textured fabrics create depth without being overwhelming, adding sophisticated dimension to solid colors. For warmer months, soft pastels offer a fresh take for spring and summer events, creating a distinctive appearance that's both seasonally appropriate and memorably stylish.

Breaking Rules Thoughtfully

The most compelling modern approaches to double breasted styling often involve thoughtfully breaking traditional rules. Consider these contemporary adaptations:

• Occasionally leaving the jacket unbuttoned for a more relaxed feel
• Experimenting with higher breaks on pants for modern proportions
• Mixing formal and casual elements to create personal expression

Celebrity inspirations like Idris Elba (who pairs double breasted suits with turtlenecks), Donald Glover (who plays with proportions and fabrics), and Harry Styles (who embraces bold colors and patterns) demonstrate how versatile the style can be when approached with confidence and creativity.

Making Double Breasted Work for Various Occasions

The versatility of today's double breasted suit makes it appropriate for numerous settings when styled correctly, from the most formal environments to creative and casual contexts.

Business and Professional Settings

For workplace environments, the double breasted suit offers a distinctive alternative to standard single breasted options while maintaining appropriate professionalism. Professional styling focuses on:

• Navy or charcoal as the gold standard for serious business environments
• Crisp white or pale blue shirts that provide a clean, professional foundation
• Subtle patterned ties that add personality while maintaining professionalism

Keep accessories minimal and sophisticated in professional contexts. Remember that proper fit is especially crucial when making the stronger style statement of a double breasted jacket in business settings, where precision conveys attention to detail and professionalism.

Formal Events and Black Tie

Double breasted suits truly shine in formal settings, where their inherent elegance and structured appearance align perfectly with elevated dress codes. A black or midnight blue double breasted tuxedo offers a distinctive take on black tie attire that demonstrates style confidence and sartorial knowledge.

The 6x2 button configuration provides maximum formality for such occasions, creating the most classic proportions. Wider peak lapels in silk or grosgrain facing elevate the formal look, creating the sharp contrast essential to black tie attire. Maintain traditional black tie accessories for classic elegance, including formal shirt studs, cufflinks, and proper formal footwear.

Creative and Casual Settings

In less formal contexts, the double breasted suit can be reimagined through thoughtful styling choices. Casual styling approaches include:

• Pairing unstructured jackets with chinos or dark jeans for a smart-casual balance
• Skipping the tie in favor of an open collar or even a well-chosen t-shirt
• Experimenting with footwear like minimal leather sneakers or suede boots

Texture becomes especially important in casual interpretations—consider knit ties, chambray shirts, or textured pocket squares that add visual interest and depth to the overall look. In creative settings, don't hesitate to embrace bolder colors or patterns that express personality while leveraging the distinctive silhouette of the double breasted jacket.

Conclusion

The double breasted suit has successfully shed its outdated associations to emerge as a versatile, distinctive option in the modern man's wardrobe. Its unique silhouette offers a bold alternative to the ubiquitous single breasted suit while maintaining the versatility to work across formal, business, and even casual settings when styled thoughtfully.

With proper attention to fit, proportion, and styling details, the double breasted suit provides an opportunity to distinguish yourself while nodding to sartorial tradition. Whether you're drawn to its classic elegance or its potential for contemporary expression, today's double breasted suit offers countless possibilities for personalization.

The confidence that comes from wearing a well-fitted double breasted suit is unmatched—it's not just about looking good, but about making a deliberate style choice that stands apart from the crowd. As designers continue to reimagine this classic form, the double breasted suit remains a testament to the enduring power of thoughtful men's style.

FAQ: Double Breasted Suits

Can shorter men wear double breasted suits?

Absolutely. The key is proportion and fit. Shorter men should consider a 4x2 button configuration rather than 6x2, ensure the jacket length isn't too long, and opt for a higher button stance. Working with a skilled tailor is especially important.

Are double breasted suits appropriate for weddings?

Yes, double breasted suits are excellent wedding options. For grooms, a double breasted suit offers a distinctive alternative to single breasted styles. For guests, they're appropriate for all but the most casual weddings. Consider the formality of the event when selecting fabric and color.

Do you always keep a double breasted suit buttoned?

The traditional rule is to keep double breasted jackets buttoned when standing and unbutton when seated. However, modern styling sometimes breaks this rule for a more casual look. For formal or business settings, keeping the jacket buttoned maintains the intended silhouette and elegance of the design.

Can I wear a double breasted suit without a tie?

Yes, modern styling often includes tieless options. For business casual or creative professional settings, a crisp shirt with an open collar works well. For more casual approaches, consider fine knitwear or even a quality t-shirt beneath the jacket.

How many double breasted suits should I own?

For most men, one well-chosen double breasted suit is a perfect addition to a wardrobe that already includes several single breasted options. A navy or dark gray double breasted suit in a year-round fabric offers the most versatility for your first purchase in this style.